44 Shaping Beauty Culture: A Critical Analysis of Kylie Jenner’s Influence in the Networked Media Era

Olivia Vasko

Introduction

In the modern networked media era, where social media platforms like Instagram and TikTok have emerged as key platforms for fan relationships and transactions, the dynamic landscape of audience engagement has experienced a fundamental transformation. This essay launches on a critical analysis of the active consumer audience and their responses to celebrity endorsements, placing a specific focus on Kylie Jenner’s influential role within the beauty market. The overarching goal of this study is to illuminate significant insights into the participatory nature of contemporary fan behavior. Kylie Jenner, a prominent figure in the realm of makeup and a multifaceted entrepreneur, stands out as one of the influencers gaining substantial attention. The trajectory of Kylie Jenner’s journey from reality TV star to beauty billionaire is symbolic of her clever understanding of the influential power employed by social media. With an extensive and dedicated following on platforms like Instagram and TikTok, Jenner leverages her digital presence not only to showcase products but actively shape and influence beauty culture. In the quest to delve deeper into the intricacies of audience interaction, this analysis seeks to unravel the nuanced ways in which consumers respond to Kylie Jenner’s endorsements and, in turn, how these reactions reverberate within the broader participatory culture characteristic of the modern networked media era. Jenner’s social media efficiency goes beyond mere product promotion; it is a testament to the intricate dance between influencers and their audience, illustrating how the digital realm has become a vital part of modern consumer culture. As consumers engage with and respond to Jenner’s beauty endorsements, they contribute to the ongoing narrative of participatory culture. This analysis aims to dissect these interactions, shedding light on the multifaceted relationship between celebrity influencers, their audience, and the evolving landscape of beauty culture in the digital sphere. This essay positions itself as a gateway to a deeper understanding of the participatory dynamics essential in the modern networked media era, where celebrity endorsements and audience engagement intertwine on platforms like TikTok and Instagram. Kylie Jenner’s influential presence serves as a compelling case study, offering valuable insights into the intricate relationship between influencers and their audience within the beauty sector culture in the contemporary media network.

An Overview

Exploring the intricate dynamics of audience engagement within beauty fandom necessitates a deep dive into the realm of participatory culture and the active role fans play in shaping content. Participatory culture, a foundational concept in contemporary media studies, emphasizes the blurring of lines between content creators and consumers. It is characterized by the transformative power of audience participation, illustrating a departure from traditional, passive forms of consumption. Drawing from the basic ideas of participatory culture and fan studies is essential to understanding the dynamics of audience participation in the context of beauty fandom. One of the first academics in this field, Henry Jenkins, highlights the active part that fans play in co-creating and influencing material. According to Jenkins, participatory culture emphasizes the erasing of boundaries between producers and consumers as well as the transformational power of audience participation (Jenkins, 2018).

In the context of beauty culture, where fans actively contribute to the formation and sharing of content, participatory culture emerges as a vital framework for understanding the actions of Kylie Jenner’s audience. Beyond being mere consumers, fans in the beauty industry have become active contributors, participating in the co-creation of beauty material. This shift signifies a move towards a more democratized approach to content creation, with fans assuming integral roles in shaping the ongoing narrative of beauty culture. The evolution from passive consumers to active co-creators has transformed audience engagement within beauty fandom into a dynamic and collaborative space. The connection between fans, influencers, and brands has given rise to a communal ecosystem where the traditional boundaries between audience and creator are increasingly blurred. Turning our focus to the academic exploration of influencer marketing, the study of active audiences provides valuable insights into the factors influencing consumer behavior in the digital age.

Scholarly analyses highlight the ways in which users actively interact with material on social media platforms and the resulting influence on their decision-making processes. Personal Connections in the Digital Age, written by Nancy Baym, examines how digital communication technologies affect interpersonal connections and relationships. The book explores how the emergence of social media, the internet, and other digital platforms has changed the way people communicate with one another. In research, Baym looks into a number of topics related to online communication, such as the establishment and upkeep of relationships, the influence of technology on these bonds, and the effects of digital communication on people as a whole (Baym, 2015) This dynamic is particularly relevant in the beauty industry, where influencers like Kylie Jenner not only endorse products but actively participate in crafting narratives around the brands they support. In the contemporary landscape, celebrity endorsements have become instrumental components of modern marketing strategies. Understanding their impact on consumer decisions requires a nuanced analysis of the intersection of personal brand, authenticity, and financial interests. This article seeks to investigate how Kylie Jenner’s endorsements on Instagram and TikTok navigate this complex terrain through a critical lens, unraveling the multifaceted layers that shape audience perceptions and contribute to the evolving discourse of beauty fandom. Kylie Jenner, notorious for her multimillion-dollar makeup brand Kylie Cosmetics, has extended her business ventures to include Kylie Swim, Kylie Baby, and Kylie Skin (Stopper, 2023)  Her collaborations with brands such as Puma, Adidas, Calvin Klein, Beats x Balmain, Skims, Kendall x Kylie, Sugar Factory, Pretty Little Thing, (Vyshnavi, 2021) among others, showcase the breadth of her influence across various industries. According to Marketinly, “Kylie charges anywhere from $250,000 to $1 million per Instagram post.” and “her endorsements tend to be very effective. A study by D’Marie Analytics found that a single Instagram post from Kylie Jenner can generate an estimated $1.3 million in media value for the brand she’s promoting.” (Sabharwal, 2022) These collaborations serve as prime examples of participatory culture in action, where audience engagement transcends beauty products to encompass a wide array of lifestyle and fashion domains.

Kylie Jenners Consumer Fandom and Networked Publics

Aswathi Kanaveedu and Jacob Joseph Kalapurackal formed a study titled Influencer Marketing and Consumer Behaviour: A Systematic Literature Review that draws from key concepts of participatory culture and fan studies to comprehend the dynamics of audience participation within beauty fandom. The analysis aligns with the foundational ideas of participatory culture, emphasizing the blurring of lines between producers and consumers and the transformative power of audience involvement. In exploring the phenomenon of influencer marketing, the study connects with the broader academic discourse, acknowledging the rising significance of influencers in stimulating consumer behavior. Notably, the ethical dimension of influencer marketing, especially the transparency of sponsorship disclosure, emerges as a critical concern addressed by both scholars and regulatory authorities. This research adds to the developing frame of knowledge regarding influencer marketing and how it affects customer behaviour. With focus on Kylie Jenner, it illuminates the complex interplay between personal brand, authenticity, and financial interests in shaping audience perceptions. Connecting to the idea of consumer fandom from week 11, which can be defined as “subcultures, groups, and/or communities of like-minded consumer, revolving around a unifying interest or object” (Hao, 2020, p. 18) This term can be seen within Kylie Jenner as she is a phenomenon characterized by enthusiastic and dedicated followers who express strong support and admiration for Kylie Jenner, not only as a celebrity but also as a brand and businesswoman. Kylie Jenner’s fanbase has the potential to influence consumer behavior. Recommendations and endorsements from Kylie may carry significant weight among her followers, impacting their purchasing decisions, as her website Kyliecosmetics.com has thousands of highly raved reviews. This critical analysis integrates key concepts from participatory culture and influencer marketing literature, offering a nuanced understanding of the contemporary networked media era’s audience behavior.

Sunny Kumar and Kuldeep wrote An Exploratory Study of Millennial Consumer Behavior Antecedents using Influencer Marketing that introduces the developing scene of marketing in the digital age, emphasizing the challenges of capturing consumer attention amidst an overabundance of distractions. It highlights the importance of influencers in forming connections with customers and influencing their opinions of brands, paving the way for the study of influencer marketing (IM) as a potential solution for this issue (Kumar and Kuldeep, 2023, p.2). Connecting this narrative to Kylie Jenner and the study of her active audience and participatory culture, she exemplifies the shift toward influencer marketing in the beauty and fashion industry. The text’s assertion that consumers now prefer seeking advice from influencers aligns with Jenner’s role as a trendsetter and authority in the beauty space. As the text emphasizes the use of influencers to make consumers feel more connected to a brand, Kylie Jenner’s endorsements become a relevant case study. The challenges outlined in the text regarding traditional marketing approaches, low recall of advertising, and the use of ad blockers resonate with the difficulties faced by marketers in reaching their target audiences effectively. In this context, the rise of influencer marketing, as exemplified by Kylie Jenner’s collaborations and endorsements, becomes a strategic response to the changing media landscape. The mention of “influencers were shown to have greater credibility and knowledge, with customers willing to follow influencer suggestions” (Kumar and Kuldeep, 2023, p.2), directly correlates with the dynamics observed in Kylie Jenner’s engagement with her audience. Jenner’s authenticity and personal brand contribute to her credibility, making her endorsements influential in shaping consumer behavior. The overall shift toward influencer marketing, as outlined in the text, is further accentuated by Kylie Jenner’s success not only as a beauty mogul but also as an influential figure on platforms like Instagram and TikTok. The study of her active audience and participatory culture involves understanding how consumers actively engage with her content, participate in discussions, and contribute to the narratives around the brands she endorses.

Fitriati and Siwi discuss the growing influence of digital influencers, particularly in the context of social media, and their impact on shaping consumer perceptions, attitudes, and purchase decisions through their study titled Mega-Influencers as Online Opinion Leaders: Establishing Cosmetic Brand Engagement on Social Media. Kylie Jenner, being a mega-influencer with a massive following on platforms like Instagram, aligns with the trend described in the text. “Kylie Cosmetics’ ability to generate social engagement with no paid ads is a testament to the power of its founder as an influencer” (William, 2019, para.4). The more power an influencer has and creates online, the more brands will want to work with said influencer/celebrity. The endorsement and collaboration with influencers, like (Fitrati and Siwi 2023) mentioned in the text, is indicative of how brands leverage the reach and impact of influencers to promote their products. Similarly, the study of Kylie Jenner’s active audience involves understanding how her interactions and endorsements contribute to her followers’ perception of brands, potentially influencing their purchasing decisions. The mention of brand engagement and expected value as mediating variables aligns with the idea that Kylie Jenner’s endorsements may contribute to her audience’s perception of the recommended brand. In week 8’s celebrity fandom, there was an emphasis on networked publics. Kylie Jenner has hundreds of fan accounts made up for her on various social media platforms. Fans may use these accounts to express their identity and affiliation with the celebrity. They can showcase their creativity through fan art, edits, and captions that reflect their admiration for the celebrity, The fan account likely fosters a sense of community among fans of the celebrity. Followers of the account can connect with each other, share their enthusiasm and participate in discussions through comments and direct messages. PopCrush posted an article back in 2017 titled The Best Kylie Jenner Stan Accounts to Follow on Instagram (Close, 2017) to bring all Kylie Jenner fans together through a platform. The accounts are public, meaning that its content is accessible to anyone on Instagram who comes across it. In summary, the recommendations, which highlight the impact of mega-influencers on brand perceptions and competition, are in line with the study of Kylie Jenner’s engaged audience and participatory culture. The study offers a theoretical framework and empirical support for the use of influencers in marketing.

ParaSocial Relationships

Delbaere et al. examine the role of Social Media Influencers (SMIs) like Jaclyn Hill, a makeup artist who gained fame on YouTube, in digital content marketing (DCM) and their impact on brand engagement on platforms such as YouTube. This aligns with the broader discourse on leveraging influencers for marketing purposes. The study introduces the concept of DCM, emphasizing its role in enhancing brand engagement, trust, and relationships. In the context of Kylie Jenner, her mega-influencer status exemplifies how influencers shape consumer opinions and contribute to brand engagement. The text explores brand engagement in terms of cognitive processing, affection, and activation, linking it to the multifaceted nature of audience engagement discussed in relation to Kylie Jenner. Jenner uses her platforms and wide range of audience to her benefit as an article on Econsultancy stated; “Kylie’s sales success comes from a mixture of promotion on her personal channel as well as her dedicated business channel. As a result, she increases her chances of conversion by targeting a wide audience. She can appeal to repeat Kylie Cosmetics customers through one channel, whilst attempting to convert fans of her celebrity into consumers of her products on the other.” (Hillier, 2019, para.5) Jenner uses these relationships and loyalty she has with her fans to benefit her brands income and promotion. Additionally, the study delves into Parasocial Interaction (PSI) Theory, relevant to understanding how Kylie’s audience perceives their relationship with her through social media interactions. One reading assigned in week 8’s celebrity fandom titled ‘You’re Born to be Brave’: Lady Gaga’s use of Social Media to Inspire fans’ Political Awareness specifically touched on these parasocial relationships. “Similarly, Kassing and Sanderson (2009) argue that fans’ social media interactions with celebrities transform conceptualizations of parasocial relationships because, while such relationships are mediated, fans increasingly experience them as real and authentic, which enhances their feelings of truly ‘knowing’ celebrities” (Click et al., 2015, p.6) Fans often feel a sense of closeness and connection as they view personal moments shared by Kylie, creating a perception of intimacy. A study from Medium stated “Kylie doesn’t just show off, she tells her fans her thoughts and exclusive stories which causes uproar in the celebrity world. Kylie’s fans are directly linked into her world and feel as if they’re there with her and she is telling them all these secrets. This connection with fans brings her closer to them, it builds a loyalty between the two” (Medium, 2017, para.8) Specific example throughout Jenner’s social media can be pointed out on X, as her fans are tweeting to her “Replying to @KylieJenner. I love seeing you happy ❤️” (user @1moretime4fun on X, 2019) or “I’m watching @KylieJenner episodes about her  @kyliecosmetics and I still remember the first day she launched, I literally took the day off of work so I could be on my computer to get a lip kit and I started crying when the site crashed 😂🥺💖” (user @jamieregna on X, 2021) The provided examples of fans expressing love, emotional connection, and shared experiences with Kylie through social media interactions further illustrate the noticeable impact of parasocial relationships in shaping audience perceptions and fostering a sense of closeness with the celebrity.

Brand Fans and Enunciative Productivity

Sokolova and Kefi address the elements of fashion and beauty influencers and how they affect consumers’ intentions to buy with a study titled Instagram and YouTube Bloggers Promote it, why Should I buy? How Credibility and Parasocial Interaction Influence Purchase Intentions. It focuses on credibility, para-social interaction, social and physical attractiveness, particularly in the context of beauty and fashion bloggers in France who are active on YouTube and Instagram (Sokolova and Kefi, 2020). The text emphasizes the importance of credibility in influencers. Credibility is linked to expertise, trustworthiness, and goodwill. Similar to our discussions about Kylie Jenner, influencers are considered credible when they are perceived as experts and trustworthy sources. Their ability to influence is often tied to their perceived authority in the domain they are discussing. The concept of social attractiveness, likability, and the ability to influence based on attractiveness is discussed. Influencers, including Kylie Jenner, often leverage their social attractiveness to connect with their audience. The text highlights that attractive speakers can change audience attitudes, and this is particularly relevant in the beauty and fashion industry where visual appeal plays a significant role. The theory of para-social interaction is introduced, emphasizing the relationship between a spectator and a performer. This concept is crucial in the context of influencers, as followers often develop para-social relationships with influencers, as previously mentioned. This aligns with the discussions about the active audience and participatory culture, where followers engage with influencers on social media platforms, creating a sense of intimacy. According to the text, both credibility and para-social contact have a favorable relationship with purchase intent. This reinforces the idea that influencers, by building strong para-social relationships and maintaining credibility, can influence their followers’ purchasing decisions. The idea of brand fans as discussed in week 3 can tie into Kylie Jenner’s online presence, as in addition to her popularity and fame as a television personality, Kylie Jenner has effectively built a passionate fan base for her own business, not just as a celebrity face.  Through a variety of expressions, this passionate network of brand fans demonstrates their everlasting enthusiasm and support. Displaying an undying commitment to Kylie Cosmetics, these brand fans regularly interact with and support the products, thereby illustrating a strong connection with the Kylie Cosmetics and Kylie Jenner herself. Fans of Kylie Jenner often exhibit a high degree of brand loyalty, actively engaging with and purchasing products from Kylie’s beauty brand, Kylie Cosmetics. This loyalty extends beyond personal fandom for Kylie as a celebrity and includes a strong affinity for the products associated with her brand. “Kylie Jenner has a net worth of a billion dollars; not in spite of her social media success, but because of it. The first drop of Kylie Cosmetics lip kits sold out in one minute. No other inaugural product launch has come close to that level of success. And where did the promotion happen? Not on KUWTK, not on TV, not even on other websites; everything centered on Kylie’s own social media presence.” (Digital Marketing Institute, 2019, para.21) These fans were already devoted and loyal to Kylie Jenner before Kylie Cosmetics even launched. Kylie Cosmetics is full of thousands of reviews, almost all speaking super highly of the brands products. Reviews such as “I literally am so obsessed with all of Kylie’s makeup launches, from her lip kits, lip oil and blushes. I will never stop buying her makeup line” (Kylie.Cosmetics.com, 2023), “probably my favorite ever kylie cosmetics product (and i love the brand), this is just the perfect cream blush!! gives a beautiful natural glow, is so blendable and buildable!! this is my 2nd time purchasing and i’m SURE it won’t be the last. dying to try new shades but for my medium/tan skin color Feelings Neutral is absolutely perfect for a beautiful blush!” (KylieCosmetics.com, 2023), “Love the formula, blends seamlessly! Will repurchase” (KylieCosmetics.com, 2023). By commenting reviews on the company’s website, it exemplifies the devotion and loyalty these fans have to Jenner’s brand.  Fan productivity, more specifically, enunciative productivity, which was also discussed in week 3, can also relate to Jenner’s brand fans, as this idea refers to the creative and dynamic use of language by individuals, and in the case of Kylie Jenner, it embodies her active engagement with her audience through various online platforms. By social media engagement and creative expression, such as makeup tutorials posted on YouTube, and fashion/lifestyle posts and updated on Instagram, Snapchat, and X. This also aligns with the discussions about the impact of Kylie Jenner’s recommendations on the beauty and fashion products she promotes, including all of her endorsements previously mentioned. The concepts of credibility, social attractiveness, para-social interaction, and their impact on consumer behavior align with our discussions about influencer culture, including our exploration of Kylie Jenner’s role in the beauty industry.

Conclusion

In conclusion, the examination of Kylie Jenner’s influential role within the beauty market serves as a compelling case study for understanding the participatory dynamics inherent in the modern networked media era, specifically on platforms such as Instagram and TikTok, with some examples gathered from X. This essay navigated the complex scene of audience engagement, shedding light on the multifaceted relationship between celebrity influencers, their audience, and the evolving setting of beauty culture within the digital sphere. By examining the participatory culture within the beauty fandom and emphasizing the active role fans play in co-creating and influencing content, it showcased the transformation from passive consumers to active co-creators, shaping audience engagement into a dynamic and collaborative space. Through the exploration of the connection of active audiences, influencer marketing, and consumer behaviour, and by researching academic articles that furthered one’s knowledge of active audiences and participatory culture within the beauty market, these findings provided theoretical frameworks and first-hand support, highlighting the impact a mega-influencer like Kylie Jenner on brand perceptions and competitiveness. By extending the discussion to the dynamics of brand engagement and parasocial relationships, it also showcased the noticeable impact of parasocial relationships in shaping audience perceptions and furthering a sense of intimacy with a celebrity.

As audiences actively engage with, and respond to beauty endorsements, they contribute to the ongoing narrative of participatory culture, emphasizing the significant role influencers play in shaping the beauty industry in the digital age. This essay positioned itself as a gateway to a deeper understanding of the participatory dynamics within the contemporary media landscape. Kylie Jenner’s journey from reality TV star to beauty entrepreneur exemplifies the intricate connections between influencers and their audience, illustrating how the digital realm has become a fundamental part of contemporary consumer culture, also proving that by having an active audience online, a brands product sales and revenue reflect accordingly.

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This work (Audience Studies - Participatory Culture of Fandom (2023) by Olivia Vasko) is free of known copyright restrictions.

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