6 The Changing Face of Gender in Sportswear Ads: How Brands Are Representing Non-Binary Identities

By: Amukta Meena Muvva

Introduction:

Gender representation in media has been an ongoing topic of discussion, especially as society moves toward greater inclusivity. While discussions surrounding the representation of women and men in advertising have long been a focal point, the inclusion of non-binary identities has only recently gained more attention. One particularly interesting area of this shift is in sportswear advertising, where brands have historically been known to represent strictly binary gender norms.

Our research investigates how major athletic apparel brands have represented non-binary identities in their Instagram advertisements, specifically comparing ads from 2012 and 2023. Through this analysis, we aimed to uncover whether there has been a shift in how these brands are showcasing gender diversity in response to the growing call for inclusivity. What we found is an undeniable contrast between the two years, reflecting both a positive shift toward gender inclusivity and the challenges that remain.

Methodology:

The study analyzed Instagram advertisements from 10 prominent athletic brands over a span of 11 years. We selected one advertisement per brand from both 2012 and 2023 to explore how non-binary and gender-neutral identities were represented across these two periods. The brands chosen for this study were New Balance, Nike, Under Armour, Reebok, Adidas, Puma, Champion, Fila, Columbia, and Lululemon.

To analyze these ads, we developed a detailed coding scheme to assess the key features of each ad. The coding focused on various factors such as the presence of gender cues (e.g., pronouns, clothing fit, model styling), the type of gender representation (non-binary, gender-neutral, traditional binary, or none), the type of product featured, the level of engagement (likes, shares, comments), and any LGBTQ+ elements present in the ad (e.g., slogans, symbols). This approach allowed us to draw clear comparisons and identify trends over time.

Findings:

The findings of our study reveal a clear transformation in how gender diversity has been portrayed in sportswear advertising over the last decade. In 2012, non-binary representation was almost entirely absent. While a few brands used androgynous models, the explicit acknowledgment of non-binary identities was virtually nonexistent. The ads of that time were dominated by traditional gender representations, with very little variation from the male-female binary.

Fast forward to 2023, and the scene has significantly changed. Major sportswear brands like Nike, Under Armour, Lululemon, and Columbia have begun to include non-binary and gender-neutral identities in their advertisements. This increase in visibility not only reflects a societal shift toward recognizing gender diversity but also showcases how brands are beginning to align with the growing demand for inclusive representation in the media.

One of the most notable trends in our findings is that advertisements featuring non-binary and gender-neutral models tended to generate higher engagement on Instagram. These ads not only attracted more likes and shares but also sparked more discussion in the comment sections. However, this increased engagement came with a caveat. Posts featuring inclusive messaging and non-binary models also garnered polarized reactions from the audience. Some users celebrated the representation, while others expressed strong disapproval, revealing that gender inclusivity in advertising remains a contentious issue for many.

The study also highlighted a degree of inconsistency among the brands. While some brands, such as Nike and Lululemon, made active efforts to integrate LGBTQ+ themes and feature non-binary models, other brands, like Puma, Reebok, and Fila, had little to no representation of non-binary individuals. This variation in approach suggests that while there has been a movement toward inclusivity, the pace at which brands are adopting these changes is far from uniform.

Relevance:

The visibility of non-binary identities in advertising is not just a passing trend—it signifies a broader cultural shift. As society becomes more aware of the fluidity of gender and the challenges faced by those who do not identify within the binary system, the demand for accurate and diverse representation in the media grows. Brands, as powerful cultural forces, play a significant role in shaping public perceptions of gender, and they are increasingly being called upon to reflect the diversity of society in their advertising.

However, simply featuring non-binary individuals is not enough. It is essential that brands approach gender inclusivity with authenticity. Tokenism—where brands feature non-binary identities without genuinely supporting or understanding them—can do more harm than good. Our research highlights the importance of creating consistent and meaningful representations of gender diversity, ensuring that these representations do not just exist to appeal to a particular market but are part of a broader strategy to create a more inclusive society.

Moreover, the role of social media platforms like Instagram in promoting inclusivity cannot be overlooked. Instagram has become a key space where brands can engage directly with consumers. In this digital age, the impact of these advertisements extends beyond the ads themselves. Social media allows audiences to interact, express opinions, and engage in discussions that shape the brand’s public image. Therefore, it is crucial for brands to consider not only the visual representation of non-binary identities but also the conversations they generate and the reactions they provoke.

Conclusion:

The analysis of Instagram ads from 2012 and 2023 demonstrates a notable improvement in the representation of non-binary identities within sportswear advertising. Leading brands such as Nike and Lululemon have embraced gender diversity, showcasing a shift toward inclusivity. However, the inconsistency among brands such as Puma and Fila indicate that full integration of non-binary representation in advertising is still a work in progress.

As brands move forward, it is essential to develop strategies that go beyond surface-level inclusion. Authentic, consistent, and thoughtful representation of gender diversity will help brands establish stronger connections with diverse consumer bases and support the broader movement for social inclusivity.

Looking ahead, future research could further explore the long-term effects of non-binary representation on consumer behavior. It could also investigate how other platforms, such as TikTok or YouTube, are incorporating gender-diverse identities into their advertising strategies, providing a more holistic view of how non-binary representation evolves across various media.

Acknowledgements:
This article is based on the collaborative research and work of Amukta Meena Muvva, Xinle Deng, and James McDevitt. The authors would like to thank their peers and instructors for their invaluable feedback throughout this research process.